Think of a long stretch of green valley nestled between cloud crowned mountains with farms and houses dotted up the gently rising slopes backed by tall alpine trees – a small river flowing gently at the middle and at the end of the valley sits a picture perfect lake with a backdrop of a glacier. That’s how you will find Gosau valley to be – like the pages of kindergarten drawing books.
The entry point of the valley is located just 12 km from Hallstatt – the beautiful and famous UNESCO World Heritage salt village located on the bank of the lake, which bears the same name as the village. One can take bus no: 542 from Hallstatt Gosaumühle bus stand and travel through the heart of Gosau valley – all the way to lake Gosau (called Gosausee), located at the end of the valley. The bus runs at an interval of approximately 1 hour. Otherwise, if are driving a car, take route 166 towards west and turn south onto Gosau district road after around 10 km.
On a sunny October afternoon we drove up this winding district road, admiring the beauty that surrounded us. It was postcard like scenery. We were driving amidst green sloping meadows dotted with chateaus and huts, cows grazing – the sound of their bells filling up the air with the sweet chime. The mountain walls on two stood like guardians with a oath to protect the beauty of this place. Tall alpine trees adorned where the meadows turned into mountain slopes. The first time we saw the Gosau valley, we forgot to speak to each other and just stared at the beauty that truly touched our souls.
The road runs for 8 km through the valley and ends at Gosau lake. We stopped 3 km before at Frühstückspension Pachler (Pachler’s Bed and Breakfast) – a beautiful house standing in the rolling green plain – run by a beautiful elderly couple. Mrs. Pachler showed us to our room – a warm and cosy one and a balcony with a view where you can sit for hours and still not be content.
We were already through with our lunch at Hallstatt and thus the entire afternoon was open for undisturbed exploration. We started walking down the valley, along the fields, along the village roads, amidst a picturesque setting and a constant peacefulness. The valley was crowned to the south by the beautiful Dachstein Mountains – rising high with its snow capped peaks. We kept walking for over an hour – hand in hand. We did not speak, just tried to enjoy the place, tried to feel the aura of tranquility, of quaintness, of repose.
And there was this realization that this is actually what we can live for. Not for sprawling urbanized amenities trying to serve you with umpteen numbers of facilities that you don’t actually need, but for the inner peace and for the well-being that nature here can provide.
The sun was dipping in the western sky. We walked up the main road and saw a 542 bus heading towards Gosausee (Gosau Lake). We hopped on. The bus drove on the meandering road for another 15 minutes. The valley narrowed and the flat sloping fields got crowded with tall green alpine trees – adorned with the fall colours. It felt like we were driving through a painter’s palette.
Few minutes later we suddenly arrived at a small clearing housing a parking area for cars. We walked past the cable car station that takes you up to the mountain valleys, past the Gousasee Guesthouse and stopped in front of the Gosau Lake. It was a beautiful sight. We stood there, hand in hand, enjoying the state of being mesmerized. The lake was surrounded on three sides with mountains and the Dachstein glacier at the back of the lake looked stunning.
Later we sat down on a beach near the lake front, chatted away, took photographs. Gosausee Guesthouse had tables laid out near the lake and we warmed ourselves with coffee, soup and bread amidst a cold breeze that was blowing across the lake. We boarded the bus shortly afterwards and 20 minutes later were busy chit chatting with Mrs. Pachler in the balcony of our room. She drove us down to a nearby restaurant, where we devoured a wonderful meal and after a short post dinner walk we called it a day. As we lay on our bed, there was not a single sound that was to be heard – a strangely beautiful feeling that brought an unexacting, gentle sleep.
Morning came early. We walked out into the coldness of the balcony. The valley was yet to wake up and was sound asleep under a thick blanket of white autumnal cloud. It was a transcendental scene.
After lazying around for a while, we got ready and went down to the breakfast room. There, Mr. Pachler stood, looking out of the window, his sketch book lying open on the drawing stand. He ushered us in. We discussed about Gosau, the weather and ongoing Syrian refugee crisis. He showed us his lovely sketches, as we completed our breakfast. Then we put our knapsacks on our backs and were ready to go for a short hike up in the valley. Mr. Pachler said, once you clear the heights, it is all sunny up there.
We were again driving towards the Gosau Lake, from where we will take the cable car. The clouds encompassed us, the shadowy figures of trees and houses with slanted roofs trying to remain inconspicuous. We stepped out at the last stop, walked up to the lake one last time before going up in the cable car. The lake looked magical. Steam fog rose from the water surface and overhung cloud rested peacefully at a distance, allowing only the gentlest shaft of morning light to pass through.
The trees looked extra peaceful, the breeze cold yet refreshing. After a cup of hot coffee, we went to the cable car station and started our ascend. As we cleared the clouds, the panoramic view of the valley presented itself. The clouds looked like a river which had quietly meandered into the valley during the night. The autumn trees looked extra special from the top. Soon we felt the golden warmth of the sun on our face, we looked up and saw the upper slopes getting washed with abundant sunshine, coming down from a blue sky.
The upper valleys of the Dachstein are famous for skiing during winters and for rest of the year, it is very popular for short or long hikes. The valleys provide excellent scenery of both mountains and blooming alpine meadows all around. By the time we reached the top station, we were already feeling hot under our layered clothing. We stopped at a nearby breakfast hut and relieved ourselves from those extra clothing. Then we started walking. We followed the well marked trail cutting across meadows, clusters of trees and strolled down to the Zwieslalm plains. It was beautiful all around – the plains resembling the location shown in the opening scenes of the movie, Sound of Music. We sat down with our back to the sun, gazing aimlessly ahead.
As the shadows of trees shrunk and the sun climbed over our shoulders, we retraced our path back to the cable station, but this time took a different route, a more woody one, where the path was dyed with fall colors – covered with the autumn leaves. We reached the cable car station around noon. With the cloud cover was gone, the valley looked like a green canvas and the lake glistening under the bright sun. We had our lunch at the outdoor table of our guesthouse, lazed around a bit and then got up, packed our bags, said goodbye to the wonderful Pachler couple and waited at the bus stop outside. The 542 bus dropped us at the Gosau valley entry point, near the tourist information center. From there we took the 947 bus and headed west towards Golling, where we boarded on a train to Salzburg.
Practicalities:
Gosau is best suited for a 1, 2 or more nights if you are visiting Hallstatt. You can rent a cab from the Hallstatt center but they can be expensive. If you have rented a car, drive west on route 166 and after around 10 km you will find the Gosau valley road leaving on your left. Going to Gosau using bus is also easy. Go to Hallstatt Gosaumühle bus stand and take bus number 542 which goes to Gosau Lake. You can drop off at your desired point in the valley.
While coming back, you can retrace back to Hallstatt or go to Golling in bus number 947, which you can avail by going to the start of the valley in bus number 542. From Golling take a train to Salzburg or to other places.
In the winter time, the whole valley and the upper slopes gets covered in snow and becomes a den from ski activities. Other times, it provides excellent hiking routes both short and long.
There are number of excellent guesthouses and hotels in the valley. We stayed in Frühstückspension Pachler and it is highly recommendable.
The best way to enjoy Gosau in through walking and cycling and of course by relaxing.
Mustard Feet's Journeys 
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