Eunoia of Pahalgam

A blue sky and yellow fields of mustards greeted us as soon as we left the city of Srinagar. It was almost noon and the sun shone brilliantly giving the mustard field a beautiful glow with the brown mountains standing at the back as guardians. We landed at Srinagar the previous night as today we would be travelling south till Anantnag, and then turn north again and drive towards idyllic Pahalgam – where the Lidder river flows and the meadows are green. The man behind the wheel, Yusuf, was telling us how these yellow fields would turn purple in November when saffron farming would be at its peak.

The highway was smooth and free of traffic and we soon turned north from the town of Bijbehara. This road was a little tight and after crossing a couple of busy village center, all we could see on both side was apple orchards – white with apple blossoms in the spring season with few yellow fields of mustard still in-between them. Some time later the snow-clad Kolahai peaks could be seen ahead of us. Yusuf stopped the car at an apple orchards. Though it was not the apple season, still the little apple counter was full of it. We drank apple juice and it was so sweet that it was difficult to believe that there were no added sugar in it. The apple orchards looked inviting and we took a little stroll under the shades of the apple trees. White apple blossoms kept falling all over and the green grass was full of them together with a bleating herd of sheep. Satyaki, our 2 year old son, had a great time running after them trying to touch the wool on their back. He ran and jumped and fell and eventually succeeded on a couple of occasions to touch them and he was elated at his achievement.

Sometime after re-commencing after drive from the apple orchards, suddenly the Lidder river came to greet us gleefully. The valley opened up and the snow clad mountain peaks looked beautiful under the falling lights. We reached Pahalgam town, which was calm and quiet and continued north for another couple of km to our hotel. The Lidder river never left our side till we reached our hotel and we were ecstatic to find that the property was right on the river too. Hotel Heevan looked beautiful – sitting right on the river banks and approachable by a private footbridge.

Next morning, we woke to a beautiful sunny day. The birds were chirping, the river burbling, the wind kept whiffling through the pine trees – every one of them seemed like a key to a great instrument. The snow clad mountains stood firm and beautiful on the other-side of the river. We went out to the lawn sat under the gentle sunshine. Satyaki chased around butterflies and his favourite ball before taking some rest at the beautiful sitting area at the edge of the river.

The idea to spend the whole day at the riverbank did arise, but couple of hours after breakfast we started for a sightseeing tour, our first stop being Chandanwadi. The road just north of Pahalgam bifurcates – the one to the right goes to Chandanwadi and the other stops at Aaru valley. Chandanwadi is the place where people start for the famous pilgrimage trek of Amarnath. The road passed over Betaab Valley, which we decided to stop while coming back, and then it started to climb. The air got chilly and soon we could see blocks of snow on either side of the road. One hour from Pahalgam, our car came to a halt a short distance before Chandawadi – the road was completely blocked by snow. We got down and found ourselves surrounded by snowy slopes. It was a very beautiful sight – a sight which brings happiness and an energy within you – and with this newly found energy all of us borrowed some boots from a small shop and hiked up a snowy slope. At times the climb proved tricky as the snow was hard and slippery under the bright sun. Two men took up Satyaki on a sledge and he seemed to love every moment of it. Coming down the slope was fast and speedy – we climbed on the sledge and the ride was quite thrilling. We spent sometime at the slope, playing with the snow, throwing it at each other – a game which Satyaki could have continued for hours.

From Chandanwadi, we retraced back few km to reach Betaab Valley. The valley’s actual name was Hajan but it was changed owing to the movie called Betaab which was shot here and the place went popular since then. The valley is characterized by lush green meadows and snow clad mountains. The experience is even more heightened by the musical whispers of several birds. During peak summer months, the valley gets crowded with tourists but we were happy to discover the valley was not at all crowded during this springtime. Apart from very few tourists there were picnicking locals who were having a day outing. We could walk leisurely across this beautiful valley – green with new spring grass and white meadow flowers and the river gently flowing through it. A paved walkway runs around the perimeter of the meadow and plenty of trees provide many shaded spots for us to picnic under.

After our picnic lunch, we proceeded to back towards Pahalgam town, only to turn to Aaru valley few km before the town. Aru is around 12 kms away from Pahalgam town. The road after Pahalgam, along the Lidder river, is narrow and winding and beautiful. We found Aaru more natural than Betaab Valley. Treks to high point was not possible due to snow and muddy conditions (the year of 2019 saw some heavy snowfall late in the season). We parked our car at the village and walked the lower part of the valley. We proceeded towards green top but the trail turned super muddy and we decided not to go further with the young one. The locals told us trails get good after mid-May. However we wandered around this beautiful valley. There was a great calmness here, a sense of repose and equanimity that we felt all along.

We started back after sunset and by time we reached our hotel, the last lights still lingered on the snowy peaks with a sky sprinkled with stars which twinkled above the mountains and the flowing river. It was difficult to look the other way and we did not intend to. We braved the chill and spent sometime at the hotel’s riverside in respect to the beauty that presented itself before us.

Next morning was yet another sunny day and we took ourselves out onto the lawn to feel the cosy warmth. Satayki resumed the chase with the butterflies and his orange ball. After a hearty breakfast, we took a walk along the river and through the shady pines. While coming back we met a horseman near our hotel’s footbridge and after taking some packed food from the hotel we started a long horse-ride to the Baisaran Valley. Most people start this ride from the town but we took a longer but peaceful ride that starts from the backside of Poshwan Park. The trail was shady, running through pine forests providing a unruffled ride among tall trees, sounds of unseen birds, spring flowers and few gentle steams of water hurrying down the slopes. Satyaki loved the horse ride and after sometime wanted to sit alone – and he did so for the rest of the journey.

2 hours after getting on the horses we were greeted by a wonderful sight. A large green sloping meadows surrounded by pines and backed by the snow capped pirpanjal peaks. Baisaran valley is a treat to the eyes. It will bring out the philocalist in anyone and everyone. It one of those alpine meadows that one should not miss when in Kashmir. Being springtime, the valley bore fresh green grass and handful of people. We sat down under the pleasant sun while Satyaki befriended a white baby sheep and took to himself to herd him through the valley. Shortly after a pet rabbit replaced the sheep – it was evident that he was having a great time – patting the animals, running around and we could understand that even a 2 and half year old was able to realize the beauty of this place.

It was past 2 o’ clock when we started back down towards Pahalgam. The horses took us through some small meadows which served as short cuts. Satyaki slept like Napolean on the horse and recharged himself by the time we reached our hotel. The last sun-rays were making the peaks of pirpanjal glow with magical warmth.

Gulmarg awaited us the following day.